An eye for detail

Lwando Mjo, a South African visual artist who shares his journey of being an artist, and what has influenced the artist that he is.

Lwando Mjo speaking in an interview. [Image via National Arts Festival 2021]

By Esihle Faltein

Who is Lwando Mjo?

Lwando Mjo is a developing visual artist from the city of Port Elizabeth (Gqeberha). I focus on mixed media in general form to communicate and, alert of a known factor in society not entirely based on the now but a story that has been going on for a while. I use charcoal on paper to do this. I am originally from a township called ‘Kwazakhele’ where I began developing my artistic journey. This was where I connected with most of the creatives that influenced me, with the likes of my grandfather who was a photographer, my uncle who is a creative in vast and my sister widely creative as well. My artistic development had then gained sight in my schooling career where I had been recognised by both his creative arts tutors in Primary and High School. This then gave me sight on how I could mold this gift into what it should be.

When did you start exploring your artistic gifts?

Good question, I always tend to answer this question in the worst way, mainly because it would state “When did I become an artist?” which I’d normally reply 2 years ago, answering yours though, Art has always been a general development in my life, to the very point that I happen not to be able to give you an exact certain time of exploration, but I can say it's been a development for as long as I know, first exhibition I had was back when we used to paint on A4 in pre-primary , I recall that and it was an image of my mother. The goal is to be able to be so precise with my technique that I 'unlearn' everything and get back to the painting of my mother I did in pre-primary.

Did your upbringing have an influence on your art? If so, how?

Definitely and most certainly it has, me being privileged enough to have been raised and have artistic siblings is an honour, as I had only realised quite recently the rareness of this, as I had thought this was generally common. My art focuses quite intensely on detail and that’s what I’ve always been quite interested in, and I think that’s what I have been taught as well, to see through the unseen in a way. With my photography as well I focus on the most weird things such us door knobs that have been carved and I generally love that because another artist sat down and carved a general timber door knob and that can just easily be forgotten, so my art infiltrates that and makes sure it does not go unseen. Weird I know but ,for myself at least one, I think that’s the greatness of the idea of “seeing the unseen”.

You come from a lineage that has great artistic gifts. Your grandfather was a photographer, your uncle is an artist, and your sister is a sketch artist. How does it feel to be surrounded by people who are artists?

Personally it’s a gift I can’t wait to see the following generation carry, with the knowledge and hope that I’ve also pushed to levels I wouldn’t have imagined.

Your work was showcased at the National Arts Festival this year (Congratulations), and not in the usual way but virtually. Now that we are adopting new ways of doing things, what techniques or art forms have you adopted?

Thank you very much, truly an honour to have been selected in that exhibition. I actually don’t plan on adopting any new ways at all (that’s for now of course), in a world that’s moving swiftly fast into a digital frame, I think the general human connection of an art piece and it’s viewer will never be overcome by this new virtual platform we are in. Therefore I still think gallery connections do matter, as I also plan to get everyone I know to visit art galleries as this is highly uncommon in the way we are raised. Galleries are therapeutic spaces.

Child labour, malnutrition and poverty are the themes you focused on with the art that you submitted at the National Arts Festival. Those are themes that carry great sorrow and speak to the experiences of many living in South Africa. Would you say you create art to mirror society or to enlighten?

Very true, I try my best to create art that does both of those things, in this case I wanted to focus more on stories that society might have forgotten due to being overwhelmed by such a daunting current case. I remember walking to get electricity and I’d see the same old man I saw growing up in the same position he was in maybe 10 years ago and his situation hasn’t changed and I try to frame that in my own perspective, hence the young figures I normally use.

The COVID-19 pandemic gave us more time to be still and spend time with ourselves. Would you say this time has been inspirational or reflective?

I truly admire your questions, as they allow me to express not only the good parts of my process but include the extremely heavy. This time has been quite a reflective segment that led to an inspirational break. In 2020 I had decided to rather take a break on creating as I had felt as if I had not been creating what I wanted but creating because I could. That quickly placed me in a position of me chasing what I really didn’t know, so after completing an artwork I didn’t feel like I feel today, there’s a certain knowing of what I created will definitely make someone extremely happy and that excites me more than anything, 2021 I’ve never created as much as I did this year and having people walk in my studio (which is my mom's garage) and order something they have never even seen makes me excited about tomorrow.

And last but not least what would you like to say to the viewer of your art?

To the viewer of my art, I hope you heal.

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/63182c_4158a6d3625f4155b7aa57271d592e3b/720p/mp4/file.mp4

An ode to art. Drawings and photographs by Lwando Mjo.

Mental health and social media

Clinical Psychologist and lecturer Dr Thabisa Mabusela sheds light on navigating mental health during these unprecedented times.

Social media addiction. [Image via DigitalVision Vectors/Getty]

By Esihle Faltein

Ironically, for a network designed to bring people closer to one another, spending too much of your time on social media can make one feel lonely and isolated.

Digital media platforms are designed to capture your attention, keep you intrigued, and have you looped into a cycle of having to check for updates. It's one of the many ways big data companies make money. But, much like an addiction to nicotine, alcohol or a gambling compulsion, social media use can create psychological fulfilment. When receiving a favourable reaction from a post such as alike, it may trigger dopamine released in the brain. The "reward" chemical is released when you're eating chocolate, winning the jackpot on a slot machine, or lighting up a cigarette. And so the more you're rewarded, the more time you want to spend on social media, even if it is to your detriment.

The quantity and quality of social relationships we uphold affect our mental health, behaviour, and physical health. The Displacement Behaviour Theory explains why social media shows a connection with one's mental health. According to the theory, people who spend more time in sedentary behaviours such as being on social media have less time for face-to-face social interaction, which have proven to be protective against mental disorders.

When Dr Thabisa Mabusela agreed to be interviewed by me, I was delighted as I knew she was quite a busy woman.

Dr Thabisa is a registered Clinical Psychologist with the HPCSA and a lecturer in the Department of Psychology at Nelson Mandela University in Gqeberha. Listed as one of The best 10 Psychological Counseling in Gqeberha 2021 on AfricanAdvance.com, it is evident that Dr Mabusela is one of the most sought after in her field. Her teaching and research areas include Developmental Psychology; Child & Adolescent Mental Health; Child Therapy; Psychometric testing in South Africa; Sexual abuse & Trauma impact; Adoption.

I asked Dr Mabusela what her thoughts were on whether or not there is a link between social media and mental health. She replied by saying, "A link between mental health and social media could either be positive – where people benefit from the information they receive through social media or negative – if they are bombarded by a lot of distressing or overly critical information." Dr Mabusela emphasises that "It is important to note that so far there is no causative relationship between social media and mental health issues as there are lots of other factors that filter into the scenario."

It can become challenging differentiating between what normal behavioural reactions are and the signs of a mental illness. Dr Mabusela cautions that we take note of the following when it comes to mental health, "A change in behaviour, unusual behaviours, deteriorating level of functioning or even a sudden escalation of over excitement in the level of functioning, mood swings, insomnia, hypersomnia, changes in appetite."

A study found that young people who use social media for more than two hours a day are much more likely to categorise their mental health as unhealthy when compared to occasional social media users. Therefore this could be deemed excessive use of social media. "Excessive use would need to be defined. Also, the purpose of that use would have to be explained before one can speculate on this question," she says. Dr Mabusela gives the example of "someone who is marketing their business through social media is likely to benefit from it." She continues by saying, " Someone who frequents social media looking for reassurances, compliments, and validation is likely to be impacted negatively." And she further concludes, "Because one can get all sorts of responses from the media, therefore cannot use social media as a genuine measure or feeder to their self-esteem. Social media can be detrimental in that regard."

When suspecting any indication of being ill, one cannot help but be curious in finding out the cause of the problem. Up to 54% of patients research their symptoms for self-diagnosis. "There is so much information out there people do diagnose themselves already. However, you still need a professional to do the necessary assessment and proper diagnoses," she replies. Dr Mabusela cautions that "The danger is that you could diagnose yourself with something serious when in fact, you might just be going through a normal reaction to something or vice versa. Where you might not take something seriously, only to find out later that you have delayed treatment for something that is potentially very serious if not attended early."

During this time of social distancing and isolation, social media is a vital tool in being in touch with friends, family and the world. And while unreliable and false information about COVID-19 may circulate, it is imperative to follow reputable news sources to avoid panic and anxiety. Being mindful of how this time affects you is also essential in keeping your mental health in check. I asked Dr Mabusela how we can take better care of our mental health during this time. She advises, "Because COVID-19 requires social distancing, we have to find new ways of creating support systems for ourselves. Through telephones, zooming, skyping, observing the regulations if we have to meet face to face, engaging in the usual stress management strategies such as exercise, sleeping well, taking good care of ourselves."

Fashion forecast: The fashion industry and sustainability

From the large retail chains swallowed in debt to, the high-end brands that had no cushion to weather the drop in sales; we have seen the fashion industry take a sartorial pause due to the coronavirus negatively affecting its consumer spending.

Buried in some stuff. Buying the things we hold dear to will instead of things we don't will not only make us happy but the planet as well. [Image via @fash_rev]

By Esihle Faltein

The spending habits and behaviour of the consumer have changed drastically over the past year. We have transitioned into a period that is more relaxed, easy and repeatable style approach towards fashion. As fewer men are buying suits, more corporations have become steadily more casual, heightened by the change in people working from home. It led to many brands failing to keep up with the changing times, filing for bankruptcy or even worse closing down. The brand Brooks Brothers, well known for being the de facto menswear brand for famous people, presidents and the wealthy, is amongst the many that will no longer be.

Trying to keep up with the ever-changing world, means coming up with new ways of thinking. The marketing and targeting strategies are quickly evolving from conventional, fixed ideals, demographic-based benchmarks, lifestyle and psychographic influences that inform why the buyer buys what they buy. There's been a sudden decrease in the number of luxury brands being purchased globally, due to the economic decline caused by COVID-19. And because everything has come to a halt, there seems to be no need to buy an R32 615,00 Louis Vuitton duffle bag when you're at home all the time. Having to prioritise essential purchases rather than discretionary ones is something we have all had to pay close attention too. A way in which retail brands can adapt to the change is by recognising strategies in investing in e-commerce and wholesale.

The rapid nature at which the fashion industry is continuously changing makes it particularly problematic. As with every passing season, consumers are encouraged to buy the most current items to stay on-trend. The downfall of most fashion brands affected by the pandemic is their inability to adapt to the changing demands and trends. As Athleisure becomes more dominant in the fashion scene, brands such as True Religion, have fallen out of favour in most recent years, amid increasing competition from more economical brands such as Levi Strauss and Madewell. As a result of the economic strain, we will no longer be seeing True Religion brick and mortar stores and many other brands as they invest more in their e-commerce business.

The fall of average online spending per month since COVID-19, per product category

[Survey done by the United Nation Conference on Trade and Development.]

Companies that put e-commerce at the heart of their business strategies are much prepared for the post-COVID-19 age. In the post-COVID-19 world, the unprecedented growth of e-commerce will most likely disrupt national and international retail frameworks. It is because of this reason that policymakers should take on concrete measures to promote e-commerce adoption within small and medium scale businesses, create specialised talent pools and draw in international e-commerce investors.

The fashion industry is the world's third-largest manufacturing sector after the automobile and technology industries. It is valued at $2.4 billion worldwide and directly employs about 75 million people within its value chain.

The textile industry accounts for ten per cent of the world's carbon emissions and close to twenty per cent of wastewater. And in addition to the environmental impact, it uses more energy sources than shipping and aviation combined. The industry has a complex supply chain. Therefore, making it hard to account for all of the emissions produced when making a pair of simple jeans or even a plain t-shirt. The means of production need to implement sustainability to reduce the environmental footprint. But even with sustainable methods of making clothes, we face a much bigger problem, one that might need consumers to examine their egos. The insatiable appetite for fashion results in consumers buying more clothes than they possibly need, and eventually landing up in landfills. We could argue that our buying habits are based on rational, conscious and well thought out decisions. However, when it comes down to it, the complexity of the human behaviour and the fundamental nature of fashion implies that ethical consumption may not be an attainable goal; it may just be a pipe dream.

The growth in ethical consumption has not yet materialised in mainstream fashion. Brands that are a part of ethical manufacturing and aim to achieve sustainability face the problem of not being supported or acknowledged. Many consumers lack awareness of the ethical issues faced by the fashion industry. Or are reluctant to pay for the surcharge for sustainable products. Perhaps with the changes caused by COVID-19, it might lead us into a paradigm shift in the behaviour. It's predicted over time that we will see slow fashion becoming the norm, where the permanence of classically styled garments is far more favoured than the latest fashion fads that last for a few months.